Passenger fuel tank problems

[scoutingitout]

going to replace that line in the next few days. Then I can check it off the list.

[scoutingitout]

3/16 steel line is cheap, just replace it and see if that fixes it.



I got this size line and it turned out to be too small. I have 1/4" line ( a 60" long piece left about 5" extra) between the tanks. But I am about done replacing it. Crossing my fingers

[guidolyons]

Originally Posted by scoutingitout

I got this size line and it turned out to be too small. I have 1/4" line ( a 60" long piece left about 5" extra) between the tanks. But I am about done replacing it. Crossing my fingers

oops, yeah, brain fart. I meant 1/4"...sorry.

I hope you get it sorted out

[scoutingitout]

Guido it's not a problem. I always look forward to your input as you seem to always know where to find the right information.
Couldn't test drive it last night but will post up as soon as I know something more today. Wrapped the fuel line with the insulation tape (as I should have the first time ) The old line was pretty flexible so I am wondering if it had a small hole or two in it.

[scoutingitout]

Test drove it today. Still has the same issue.. Only three things left to try, replace selector switch, fuel pump, or exhaust.

[SCOUTMAN67]

Originally Posted by scoutingitout

Test drove it today. Still has the same issue.. Only three things left to try, replace selector switch, fuel pump, or exhaust.

Did you ever take a look at the pickup tube that goes into the tank? I've had a few that were completely plugged up and it required a coat hanger and a lot of carb cleaner to break things loose. At the elbow connector under the pass. side seat, did you blow air through it back into the tank to see if it makes it that far?

The fuel pump is not the problem. If it sucks from the dr. side, it's going to suck from the pass. side.

Exhaust is not the problem. If it runs a mile and dies, it's not getting hot enough by the fuel lines or tank to boil gas or vapor lock.

Selector switch is probably not a problem if you blew compressed air through it and it worked ok.

-Gary

[scoutingitout]

Yes, I ran a coat hanger through mine and carb cleaner as well. I even put a fuel filter screen on the end of the tube. And I can drive it that mile and the muffler is so hot I can't touch it. It just doesn't seem it should get that hot that fast but it does. I took it off another Scout I have and it was still attached to the frame but the body was off the frame and the manifold end of the exhaust was sitting exposed to the elements for a few years. I'm wondering how much water/rust and other junk is in it. Only problem is I don't have the money now to put a new system on it. So I have been doing everything else as you all suggest it.

[guidolyons]

A quick & cheap test... cut off the muffler and run a straight exhaust pipe and see if it still has problems.

[scoutingitout]

Yep, my thought as well. Just hope it's not too loud

[4ByFourByeIV]

Originally Posted by scoutingitout

I put a fuel pump screen on the end of the pickup tube ( these are all things I have done to the drivers side tank and it works fine.)

Can you please describe to me how you did this? I've been trying to come up with a way that meets my approval. But I have yet to ask the scout community..

[scoutingitout]

I used a screen similar to the picture. I pulled the pickup tube out of the tank and cleaned it a wire coat hanger, carb cleaner spray and compressed air to clean the tube then put the screen on the bottom of the tube so that the end of the tube was covered by the screen and then wrapped the screen around the tube and held it in place with a small piece of mechanics wire. Nothing fancy and it is still on them.

[Albuq. Henry]

Another thing that may possibly be happening, is an air leak. You seem to be pretty confident that the line is not plugged..... maybe bad connections or a pinhole in the line somewhere....

[scoutingitout]

I have cleaned the pickup tubes in both tanks the same. I have replaced every line all the way to the carburetor. Both sides have been treated the same so I am stumped what to try next. I keep coming back to the exhaust because it's the only thing different between the two sides. I haven't cut it off yet because I can't afford to replace it.

[SCOUTMAN67]

Just take out the pass. side tank and sell it. Problem solved!

BTW, I don't think anyone here would be able to touch their muffler after driving a mile.

-Gary

[scoutingitout]

i would love to get a plastic tank to be sure it's clean. My main concern is my fuel gauge isn't working and only having one tank forces me to pull off the road and add gas from a can on the side of the road. Some places there is no room to do this and I am always worried about running out of gas. If both tanks functioned correctly I could switch tanks until I can refill one of them. So this is my dilemma for now

[walker]

Just out of curiosity, and I did not go back and reread all the posts, but is it possible that you don't have a vent line in the connection from the tank to the filler neck and no vented cap either? That would cause the pump to not be able to draw against a vacuum. Otherwise run a piece of rubber line from the tank pick up directly to the fuel pump and try that. If that work attach it with a bard to the tube that comes out of the selector valve, if that works attach it to the inlet of the selector valve, if that works attach it to the inlet of the tube that goes to the selector valve. At that point you have either found or inadvertently fixed you trouble.

[scoutingitout]

Well I am an idiot..
I really need to say this again, I AM AN IDIOT.

I was using the selector valve wrong and was turning it to the completely closed when I thought it was on the passenger side tank. WOW. I wasn't aware it had that setting I thought it was a position for both tanks at once..
Anyway I drove around a little and it worked fine.

[Albuq. Henry]

Cool!
Do you have that warm fuzzy feeling inside cuz you got the best of the scout finally?? A sense of acomplishment??

Hopefully you didnt chomp off the exhaust yet...

[scoutingitout]

To be honest I feel real silly. I took auto tech in college, worked in a few shops for years and this old thing is kicking my butt all the time. I think it is too simple and it gets the best of me. I didn't cut off the exhaust but I would still like to move it back to the stock location in the back.

Thanks for all the suggestion and ideas.

[guidolyons]

Originally Posted by scoutingitout

Well I am an idiot..
I really need to say this again, I AM AN IDIOT.

I was using the selector valve wrong and was turning it to the completely closed when I thought it was on the passenger side tank. WOW. I wasn't aware it had that setting I thought it was a position for both tanks at once..
Anyway I drove around a little and it worked fine.

That's what the little pointy arrow is for...

Glad you got it figured out. I've learned over the years...check the SIMPLE things first. Oh well, at least you know that your lines are clean and in good shape.

A few years ago I was putting in a garage door opener. It would raise the door fine, but for some reason I couldn't get it to go back down smoothly. 3 out of 5 times it would stop and reverse before it closed. I tried all kinds of fixes, reinstalled the rails, checked the electric eyes, adjusted the down force, etc etc...still not working Then my wife comes in to bring me a drink (and ask why it's taking so long), I tell her I'm having problems getting it adjusted...she watches one time and says, "The rope is hanging down and blocking the beam." DOH! I forgot to remove the pull down rope and it was intermittently blocking the electric eyes...boy... I felt DUMB.

[lonnie]

i remember having the same problem with the switch and it took me some time as well to sort it out. you think it would be obvious but it wasn't to me. happy for you tanks are working now.

[scoutingitout]

Simple things are the easiest to overlook it would seem. The more we think we know something the more we find we can still learn.
I am working on joining a small off roading club here called Idaho Off Road
http://www.idaho4x4.com/

They seem a great bunch of folks and it will be nice to have others to run with.

Again I thank you all for your help, ideas and even good natured prodding I know I enjoy helping when ever I can. I will never say I know everything, I will never say I know enough. I will say I know enough to ask others for help when I need it.

[SCOUTMAN67]

Originally Posted by scoutingitout

Again I thank you all for your help, ideas and even good natured prodding I know I enjoy helping when ever I can. I will never say I know everything, I will never say I know enough. I will say I know enough to ask others for help when I need it.

Glad you got it figured out. I think whoever it was that posted reply # 7 knew what they were talking about and had done this exact same thing in the past!

So, don't feel bad.

-Gary

[loggerg]

On the qustion of the tank selector switch, just where is yours located? I have a '63 Scout 80 with two tanks and I can't find the selector switch anywhere inside the cab. I figured it would be off the side of the drivers seat if it was going to be anywhere; somewhere you could easily reach down and turn before the engine died. Did some models come with 1 tank?

[guidolyons]

Originally Posted by loggerg

On the qustion of the tank selector switch, just where is yours located? I have a '63 Scout 80 with two tanks and I can't find the selector switch anywhere inside the cab. I figured it would be off the side of the drivers seat if it was going to be anywhere; somewhere you could easily reach down and turn before the engine died. Did some models come with 1 tank?

Yes, some models only came with one tank on the driver's side. The selector valve *should* be on the floor just to the left of the driver's seat. The switch on the dash only selects which tank is showing on the gauge. It is possible that a PO added a passenger side tank and just plumbed it in without a valve, or it had a valve and was removed by a PO.