Part 4 Build up-727/J@@P D300

[Bill usn-1]

So if you guys have been following along with my antics you know the son stole my trail scout after he joined the Navy.
Well after he returned from Pensacola the torque converter let go.
This was my first 727 rebuild that I did almost 5 yrs ago. Needless to say I was a little disapointed when it caused the tranny to start slipping. Well I pulled out the spare 727 that was supposed to be for my build up and I installed a master rebuild kit with new converter.
Well he is now back together and it's now back to my project.

What I plan on is to swap the tail shaft in the 727 with one from a J@@P wagoneer with the tail housing, so I can bolt on a D300 TC.
While doing it I will freshen up the tranny.
I won't go thru a step by step of the rebuild since it is very well documented else where.
But I will try to show some of the highlights.

To start with you will need the tail housing and shaft from a jeep wagoneer 727. An alternative would be the Dodge 727 which has a longer tailshaft housing and is set up for the clocking position for a NP208 TC.

Here is the housing next to the scout housing.

Other build ups.
Rear Disc Jeep D300 OBA OBW Interior PS pump reseal Hydro boost Mirrors Headliner
SOA Bushing replacement Roll cage And of course..FI

[Bill usn-1]

You will also need some good reference material.

[Bill usn-1]

And you will need some parts.
I used a couple sources.
First I ordered the kits from ARTransmission I also opted for a set of steel plates to be safe and the Transgo TF-2 reprogramming kit.
I have always used the B&M transpack and have loved the results, but everyone else says the TF-2 is a good kit. So I will try it.
I also picked up the new converter locally for ~$50 from Dacco.
I recommend you use www.transonline.com to locate a parts or converter supplier near you and of course Ebay

[Bill usn-1]

Now the first problem I run into is I notice the output shaft has a different snout on it!:eek:

[Bill usn-1]

Other than the snout, they are identicle. So what to do...
I was seriously considering modifing the shaft to work.
The plan was to tack weld a 7/16 1/4"dr socket on the end of the shaft with the small snout and then polish it up.
The end needs to be ~.620dia and 3/4" long.

Well I got lucky and found a place that deals in tranny cores.
They had several in stock.
So it was an $80 dollar leson.
Better now than after I had the thing apart!

Slauson Transmission Parts
15407 S Broadway St
Gardena, CA 90248-2207 USA
Phone: 310-768-2099
Toll Free Phone: 800-421-5580

[Bill usn-1]

So now you need to tear the tranny apart.
Here is the basic tranny on the bench. The valvebody is pulled already.

[Bill usn-1]

The next thing I do is remove the front pump.
There are 2 holes that are tapped for 3/8X16 bolts.
I screw some sholdered bolts in place of the 5/16" bolts.
Then I use a slide hammer to remove the pump.
If you look close you will notice i had already tapped the original vent hole on the pump for 1/8NPT. Then I drill and tap a vent in the top of the case and run my vent hose to the firewall.
Keeps the tranny from sucking water in the vent during water and mud crossings.

[Bill usn-1]

OK I'm back.
Ended up having to build 2 727's this weekend. mine with the jeep tailshaft and another with the longer Dodge tailshaft for a wagonmaster install.
So back to the build.

[Bill usn-1]

To replace the clutches, all you have to do is remove a large snap ring. But to replace the piston seals that actuate the clutches you need to have a way to depress the springs to get the center snap ring out.
What I do is just stick it in my press and use a couple of sockets on the outside of the retainer. Then use flatstock between them and press them down. It doesn't take much to clear the ring.
Once it is off you can remove the piston and replace the o-rings. For that you should refer to the book.

[Bill usn-1]

pic two

[Bill usn-1]

To remove the forward servo piston I just use my valve spring compressor.
I only depress the piston far enough to remove the snap ring.

[Bill usn-1]

Once everything was apart and cleaned and resealed, it was time to reassemble.
The one trick I learned to help you put these together is very simple....
Drill a hole in your bench!
About 1.5".
Then you can set the tailshft end of the case over the hole and just start stacking the parts back in.

Here is the case over the hole and you can see the spag/over run clutch in the bottom.
New springs and rollers.
Also note the hole drilled in the top of the case and tapped for a 1/8th pipe fitting.
The vent in the pump housing is tapped and plugged.
No need to drill just tap for a 1/8th plug.

[Bill usn-1]

That's it for today!

[Binderman]

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
Now the first problem I run into is I notice the output shaft has a different snout on it!:eek:

I got lucky I guess.

Didn't I give ya the name of the fella you bought your tranny parts from:( Sorry!!

Now I just need to find an IH 727 and a J**P 300:eek:

[Binderman]

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
pic two

Here's what I built for working tranny/clutch packs.

Now with the 700r4/4L60e's I need to rework it as it doesnt have enough throw to release the return springs on one of the clutch drums used in them:(

The foot pedal is the clutch pedal from a moline tractor and the tool storage tray is the hubcap from a ford car Use what ya got is my motto:)

[scoutman800]

bill as always, thanks for sharing this. one of the projects i hope to tackle next year. nice pan, where'd ya get it and how much more fluid does it hold? wasn't going to mess with a different tailshaft, but now ya gots me to thinkin' and that can be scary.

[Bill usn-1]

Got the pan off ebay...of course. Even came with the permanent reuseable o-ring gasket! It was only about $20.
It holds 4 extra quarts.
The one thing it didn't come with is the filter extention.
It's not required but it helps to prevent drawing air if you are climbing really steep hills.

It could be made pretty easy also.

[Bill usn-1]

Binderman you are handier than you lead people to believe!!
Too bad you had to live sooooo far away!

[Binderman]

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
Binderman you are handier than you lead people to believe!!
Too bad you had to live sooooo far away!

Tell me about it!! If I lived closer I would be Caged,FI-ed,SOA,Locked F&R, sittin on 60's and 40's aaaaaaaaand be broke, and probly single with child support payments and all the while trying to keep up with everyone else in our club:eek: :(


Just how fur is it from Crowell America to Spain?

Gonna have supper ready tonight when? Wanna get jump on the ole home repairs? I'll be in/near the hood by 7:30/8:p

[Binderman]

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
Got the pan off ebay...of course. Even came with the permanent reuseable o-ring gasket! It was only about $20.
It holds 4 extra quarts.
The one thing it didn't come with is the filter extention.
It's not required but it helps to prevent drawing air if you are climbing really steep hills.

It could be made pretty easy also.

My guestion is. Bill have ya ever had the driveshaft to tranny pan clearance issue after your spring overs?

Like this poor fella? I know its the bigger (1350?) cv joint, but this is crazy. How long before the tranny case splits in half?

[Bill usn-1]

That's exactly why I still run the stock shaft instead of my CV shaft in the front.
I picked up a waggy shaft that will almost bolt it but....it will hit the pan.
If I put the CV joint at the axle then there is no need to have a CV joint!!!


I'll either be in tha garage working on the roof or the shed building my 300!!

the door is open.

[Bill usn-1]

OK well now that the tranny and TC are in and running I figured I better add to this article.
The assembly went fine until I tried to perform the pressure test before bolting the valve body in.
The servos were not reacting right to the air pressure and the reverse sevo sounded like it was leaking air!!
Well I ended up pulling the input shaft and pump back out (twice) to try and figure out what was going wrong.

Well on the 3rd assembly I finally noticed that the support on the inside of the pump was machined different on the 2 pumps I had on the bench.
Well after a little CSI work I figured out why the tranny I picked up from a guy that said it was just rebuilt but would not work.
He had used a 78 and later lock up pump housing on the scout tranny during his rebuild.
These have fluid ports different from the IH 727.
So I now have everything I need to make a lock up IH 727 should I ever feel the desire for 200 less RPM and a week torque converter.

I also spen t a night installing the TF-2 transgo kit.
I was impressed with the kit but read all the little pieces of paper that have additional steps added to them.

The verdict is still out on if I like it as much as the B&M but we will see.

[Bill usn-1]

After the tranny was assembled, I freshened up my D300 with a couple new bearings and all new seals.
I left it single stick for now.

Now for the install.
First, it was nice to lift it up in place and have 2 studs to slide it onto.
But then it won't seat, and it's hitting the cross member????
Again more CSI.....sorry wrong show....NCIS..get it Navy Criminal inv...you get it.

We figure out the the mounting flange on the bottom of the tailhousing is 1 1/2" shorter than the original.
This is good news cause I was close to cutting my crossmember to clear!!

So the easy fix was a piece of 1 1/2 square tubing that I just drilled a couple 1/2" holes in and stuck it between the mount and the tail shaft.

[Bill usn-1]

I also had to flip the bracket that bolts to the tail shaft backwards so the holes would line up.

[Bill usn-1]

another shot.