Power Steering pump reseal

[Bill usn-1]

I was answering a question on the "other board" but I figured it might be good here also.

Here is a quick write up since I just did it 2 days ago!!!

First remove the pump.
I pull the low pressure hose first and stick it in a can to catch the 1 qt of fluid.
The pressure line on the back is 5/8 the pump fitting 1".
Hold the pump fitting when removing the line. Use only a flre nut wrench on the line to prevent rounding it off.

Once the pump is removed then you need to remove the high pressure fitting 1" and the 2 studs 11/16".



Once they are out the whole body removes from the pump.
Here it is with the seal kit I used.




Replace the 4 o-rings. 2 for the studs, 1 for the pressure port, and 1 for the body.



Hopefully you cleaned everything first!!!
Now replace the o-ring on the pressure port fitting.
Make sure you put it back in the "right" groove if you didn't pay attention when you removed it!!!



Then slide the body back on the pump and screw in the studs and pressure fitting.




Done.
I did not replace the front shaft seal.
If you want to do that the get the pulley puller and follow the directions.

PS if you wanted to boost the pressure a little while it's apart, now is a good time.
See the hydroboost article.!!
Hope this helps.

Other build ups.
Rear Disc Jeep D300 OBA OBW Interior PS pump reseal Hydro boost Mirrors Headliner
SOA Bushing replacement Roll cage And of course..FI

[Eagle-Mark]

Do you ever sleep!

[Bill usn-1]

Not for the last month!!
Too much to finish....sleep when I'm dead!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Shackles went on last night. Cruise control is going on today!
Went with the cheap audiovox for $90 at Autozone.
You can use tach only or Tach and VSS!!!
VSS is on order from JTR.

[Binderman]

Originally Posted by Bill usn-1

Now replace the o-ring on the pressure port fitting.
Make sure you put it back in the "right" groove if you didn't pay attention when you removed it!!!

I agree!! If ya get the o-ring in the wrong land (groove) then your pump will act like it is making NO pressure.

Don't ask me how I know this, or how many gallons of P/S fluid it took to figure out the problem : rant : : angry: : bonk : : mad : : banghead : yikes :

I see the garage hasnt been packed up yet : histeric

Another good write-up Bill : urock :

: thumbsup

[Bill usn-1]

Originally Posted by Binderman

I don't think he does either.

I see the garage hasnt been packed up yet

You ought to see it now!!!
I am getting ready to pull the scout in just in case it rains!!!
The shelves are bare!!
The truck left this afternoon.
Last few items go on Thursday!!

[R290]

First this is a great thread as it has all the details, with pictures. Bill you did not say where you purchased the seal kit from. I was going to go to Napa.
Next question is how have you solved removing the sleeve issue, so the pump can be removed from the PS bracket? I removed the pump and bracket together and then worked on getting the sleeve out, it's a tight fit. I don't want to do that again, so I was think of getting a washer/nut, like those you see on Toyotas and silver soldering the sleeve onto the washer, this way the nut can turn but not the sleeve, and the sleeve would be pulled out at the same time as the nut is removed. Does anybody know if you can buy those little sleeves, if not I can measure it and by some tubing, did not what to practice welding on my only one. I am new to Scouts, but was told I started off right as I bought two project vehicles;) 77 and 80 I went with the user name R290 (Dupont’s classification for Propane) No plans to convert to propane, maybe TBI. Craig

[Bill usn-1]

I only had autozone and Oriellys so it had to be one of those two but I think they can cross the number.

If by sleeve you mean the pulley, there is a special little tool just for that.
It like 2 halfs of a clam sheel that go over the end and a sleeve holds them together.

I picked mine up at Harbor freight but I think Autozone will loan them to you for free.

[R290]

Here is a picture of the part. This is the sleeve I was talking about, I found it was a pain to remove, I just want to make it easier to remove next time, and not have to remove the bracket to get the pump out. I found the re-seal kit at the autoparts store, and installed it last night, did not put the pump in as I was waiting on how others have resolve this other problem.

[Bill usn-1]

OH that sleeve.......
You might be able to grab it with a pair of channel locks I prefer the 410's with the oval jaws.
Then try to just unscrew it off the stud.
You have to be real careful of the factory bracket. It's cast so the little ears tend to break off easy.
I don't think there is room for a 2 or 3 jaw puller to get behind it.

The alternative would be to use a cutoff wheel and slice the thing so it loosens up from the stud. Then replace with another homemade one.

[thescoutmandan]

i just used a screw driver to pry it out from the side it was pretty easy. bill did you boost your power steering while you where in there??? if not this is how you do it. makes a noticable diffrence i would deffently recommend it. you remove the hi pressure bypass valve. arrow markes what im talking about. remove the nut off the back of it. there is a spring and a BB and a little pointy thing in there that the BB sits on top. there is not a lot of spring pressure so no fears on loosing any of the parts. Get 2 #4 machine washers and put them in the bottom of the valve. towards the big flat end that you see in the pic. grind down the pointy thing to make sure no clearance issuse occure. and then put it back together. The washers give the spring more springs pressure and there for more powerfull steering. To much pressure you could blow lines. but 2 seem to work just fine for me. Im thinking about going with 3 washers. but you can deffently feel the diffrence.

[Bill usn-1]

Go to the hydro-boost conversion I wrote!!
The write up is in there. : thumbsup
hydro-boost

[JerryD]

Originally Posted by Bill usn-1

I was answering a question on the "other board" but I figured it might be good here also....

Hey! Am I the only one that can't see the pictures? This thread and the BB use the same images, & I'm getting the little red x's on a couple of computers in both IE & Firefox.

: redx :

Jer

[Eagle-Mark]

Originally Posted by JerryD

Hey! Am I the only one that can't see the pictures? This thread and the BB use the same images, & I'm getting the little red x's on a couple of computers in both IE & Firefox.

: redx :

Jer

Must be cause they look good here. You have some kind of protection like firewall or ?

[Binderman]

Pics show up on my end.

Sorry!!

[Bill usn-1]

Must be the child language protection!!
Since we are talking about "pumps"!

[kneemoe]

great write up, i think i must read all your threads, cause you're always teaching me something bill, thanks - no problem seeing the pics from here

[JerryD]

Originally Posted by Bill usn-1

Must be the child language protection!!
Since we are talking about "pumps"!

Hardee-har-har. Humph.

I dunno. I can see the image Dan and R290 posted, but Bill's pix are *sometimes* displayed, sometimes not. ??? I'm at work and there are firewalls in place, but it seems to be random as to which pix are displayed. I know I posted a question like this before, and honestly, I'm not a newb at computers or network security, I just haven't seen a consistant pattern. The only thing I can guess is that the site Bill loads his pictures on might get flagged as a "hostile" IP range or domain and then it may be allowed because other times the images show up. ???

I'll try at home tonight. Hey! That's a novel idea... check out the forums at HOME!

And Bill, your write-ups are great, very helpful. : beer : Just wish I could see the pix!

[Bill usn-1]

Well I'm using the image shack hosting site. It's free and no limit to number of pics. I am over 700 now with the scout build up and all the threads!!
If I change now, that's a lot of threads to fix!!

Hope it's something simple for you figure out.
I know at WORK there are a lot of pics that our Military sites won't show. Even some of mine!!
So it has to be a permissions/content thing.

[Eagle-Mark]

The only fool proof way to keep a picture in a thread forever is to attach it to the post. Second best would be our gallerey but you could delete them yourself is the only failure there.

[JerryD]

Ah, the electron gods are smiling down on me. I CAN SEE THE PICTURES!!! : woohoo :

By the way, I finally ponied up and got broadband. My wife bribed the kids during the move and got cable ( : rant : ), but ordered up DSL for me. I'm still trying to bring her on over to the ScoutSide, but now I can download the monster pix without any pain... ;) : burnout

[SCscoutguy]

Once the pump is removed then you need to remove the high pressure fitting 1" and the 2 studs 11/16". Once they are out the whole body removes from the pump.

Bill first off thanks a bunch for making this and all of the other helpful threads you have made in the past! I followed your directions in taking my PS pump apart and I have hit a snag. I followed what I have qouted at the top and the pump portion will still not come out of the casing. I soaked it in Kano Kroil and I even tried tapping it on the backside of the pump through the high pressure fitting hole and it still wont break free. Are there any other bolts maybe on the front of the pump that I am missing that need to be taken out to release the pump from the housing? Here is where I am so far...


I am taking the Scout II pump out of its casing and swapping in a pump from the donor GM truck I got my hydroboost off of to help with the pressure. I know I could just do the washer mod that you said but I like doing things the hard way sometimes just to see if it can be done.

[Binderman]

All that holds the "can" on you have removed, so its just a matter of getting the o-ring to let go of the can now.

I would recommend a rubber hammer and a piece of wood to tap around the edges of the can with to try to break it loose. Tapping on the can where the oring seals might help some also.

Work your way around the outer lip with the block of wood (helps distribute the blow over a greater area) and go easy as the lip will deform and could cause a leak after reinstall.

Tap a little and then give up and drink a soda and then try again,, repeat process till it comes off.

While your that deep into it, you might as well reseal the whole thing!! If you don't have the means the R/R the pulley, take it to someone who can as it will be a little coin well spent!!

Wish ya luck!!

[SCscoutguy]

All that holds the "can" on you have removed, so its just a matter of getting the o-ring to let go of the can now.

That is pretty much what I figured. I will go and try the method you said and see how it goes.

While your that deep into it, you might as well reseal the whole thing!! If you don't have the means the R/R the pulley, take it to someone who can as it will be a little coin well spent!!

Oh I am going to completely rebuild the whole entire thing while I am at it. I have a HF puller set that I can take the pulley off with but when I go to reinstall how do I go about that? I have a shop press could I use it or would that be to much pressure? Once again thanks for the info.

[Bill usn-1]

You use the same puller.
Just use the big silver bearing and the threaded stud in the kit.


You could just change the valve from the other pump into this one!!

[thescoutmandan]

no shop press would kill it. You see on the front of the shaft there are the treads on the inside of the saft. If you can get a peice of all thread the same tread design screw it in tell it hits bottom put your pully on and get a large thick washer and then with a nut ontop the washer and pully tighen the pully down onto the saft. Otherwise take it to a repair shop and have them use there tool which dose the same thing to put it back on. using a shop press would not be good for it. Cost me 5 bucks last time i had my pully taken off and put back on new pump.