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  • 727 build up

    When I bought my Scout it came with a leak in the trans. I was told it's the front seal and the repair would run $200 to $300. I figured that while the tranny is out, I might as well get it rebuilt and have all the seals replaced. I'm toying with adding a shift kit (RV type) and possibly a temp gauge and remote filter.

    Are there any other tricks I should ask the builder to tend to while he's in there?

    I read an article about a lower 1st/2nd gear set but I don't think the $400 is worth such a little change in the ratios.

    I'm looking more for something that will last forever (I can dream, can't I?) as opposed to neck snapping manual shifts.

    Bulletproof is the key word for this rig.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Tranny

    Well I guess one opinion is like another....
    I was always partial to the B&M transpack shift kits since they always had worked great in every tranny I have done.
    But after hearing all the hoopla on the transgo No yoyo kit, I plan to get one for my next rebuild and see if there is any difference.
    If the shop does a complete rebuild with new seals, washers, plates(fiber and steels) and band. I don't think you will have a problem.
    The bolt in sprag would be a good option on the rebuild.
    After that it's up to your wallet. kevelar band and clutches...
    I like the idea of the lower gears for 1st and 2nd. Just not the price. Torque converter...

    HTH
    Bill USN-1

    COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
    HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
    May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
    Learn to do it right.

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    • #3
      Sandracer and Bill,

      As you know I just got done last week going through my 727 after I tore the rear sprag out of it. You definately want to go quality parts. As I removed the front band, I compared it to the new super heavy duty kevlar band. The metal band itself was at least twice the thickness of the heavy duty band I put in there last year. When holding the previous band from an attaching point, it drooped into an oval. Holding the new kevlar band it stayed in a circle. Find a quality tranny parts place and compare the two. Rear band, I really couldn't tell the difference between them other than the material on the band. The new front clutches I put in were kevlar also, instead of having just parallel lines on the faces, they had crosshatching. I went ahead and replaced all of the steels also, at $1.50 or so apiece, I thought why not. Shift kit wise, I already had a transgo in it from the last time. Pretty happy with it. Just be careful where you drill the extra holes. So this by yourself in a quiet environment so you don't get the wrong hole. I also replaced the 11" torque converter with a 12" and will be putting on an external cooler with in the next week. Installed everything in to the new case including a bolt in sprag, upgrade the mounting bolts from the 1/4" ones supplied to the ones holding the rear outputshaft housing that are 5/16".

      HTH,

      Jeff

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      • #4
        torque converter

        Bill,

        Like you, I've run the B&M kits in a couple trannys. My oldest son's Elky has the Transgo in it, now. It had the B&M before. When he took it for the first drive with the Transgo, he thought the tranny was broken. What he was feeling was a REAL positive snap into 2nd gear. He figured the Transgo gave him about 1/2 a second in the 1/4 mile.

        Not quite what I need for the Scout. Positive shift, yes. Neck snapping, no. But then he drives the Elky quite differently than I drive the Scout.

        I forgot all about the torque converter. Is the IH version substantial or is there something else I should explore. I'll admit, I know precious little about them.

        I'm definitely not on an unlimited budget but I'm willing to spend a bit more to only have to do this job once.

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        • #5
          11 - 12?

          What is the gain by going to a larger converter?

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          • #6
            The way it was explained to me, is that the 12" will work less to get the same thing done as the 11". The rpm stall range is about 300 less than the 11". Will stay cooler, too. Make sure you have the holes for the 12" before you commit to it.

            Jeff

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            • #7
              A small converter has a higher stall speed than a larger one. Stall speed equals=launch rpm. A smaller converter slips more allowing a higher rpm at take off. Just ask your drag racing buddies. This also means your transmission will run hotter with a small (stall) converter, but have more power accelerating, especially with bigger tires. Just use an auxillary cooler.

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