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Disk brakes for my72' scout

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  • Disk brakes for my72' scout

    Is there a way i can use ford front end parts to put disk brakes on my scout cause its kinda hard to find scout Dana 44 parts where i'mat, or i just dont know where to look.... any helpwould be great...thanks

  • #2
    I lucked out and found a Dana 30 with disks at a junk yard and swapped from the ball joints out.

    The following is from the Binder Bulletin, But it still requires parts from a Dana 44, I dont know if you could subistitute Ford Rotors or not. Hope tha this helps

    Converting a Drum Brake Dana 30 to Disc Brakes

    The steering knuckle on all drum-brake-equipped Dana 30 front driving axles used in early Scout II production uses SIX bolts to hold the spindle and the brake backing plate in place. The caliper-mounting-brackets (and the matching spindles) from later disk-brake-equipped Scout II's use EIGHT bolts. While it appears at first glance that the six-bolt steering knuckles must also be replaced, there is a way to use the 6 bolt knuckles presently on the axle.

    Parts List:

    * Front backing plates from a 1970-1986 Chevy Pickup, Blazer or Jeep Grand Wagoneer
    * Disc calipers and flexible hoses from same
    * Disc rotors and hubs from a 1973-1980 Scout II
    * Disc brake master cylinder and equalizer block from 1973-1980 Scout II
    * Adapter fittings from the steel brake line to the flexible hoses

    The backing plates off a Jeep Wagoneer or a Chevy Blazer or 1/2 ton pickup (with the caliper from same) can be mounted to the 6 bolts currently on your existing knuckle. Then use the same six-bolt spindle that you took off your Dana 30 axle, but use the hub and rotor off the Scout disc brake system. The two styles of spindles are identical in every respect, except for the number of mounting holes.

    The brake lines on your Scout will require some minor adaptation to attach to the new calipers' flex lines. Change both the master cylinder and the proportioning valve to the Scout II disc brake type, and you should be ready for MUCH better stopping.

    (Thanks are owed to John Comer of Gryphin Automotive for his consultation on this question.)

    -----------------------------------------------------------
    NOTE: (Added 9/21/97)

    The above parts list and description are provided as a courtesy by John Comer of Gryphin Automotive Services. If you get these parts together and take them to another automotive shop for installation, John cannot provide you (or them) with installation and modification procedures. These conversions are his livelihood; they are how he makes his living and feeds his children.

    If you want one of these conversions done, Gryphin Automotive will be happy to do it FOR you. (John has served many out-of-state customers.) Please do not ask for "free" advice, however. Although he has provided this information in the past, he cannot continue to do so.

    It's really not fair for individuals who have tried to do this on their own (or tried to have a different shop do it for them) to complain to John when or if it doesn't work correctly -- particularly if his instructions are not followed.

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    • #3
      thanks

      thanks for the info, going to try it when i get back from training in the desert.....

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      • #4
        What if you already have a '73, but it has drums all the way around. Do you still need a new master cylinder, proportioning valve, and equalization block? I mean, some '73's came with discs....

        Thanks!

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        • #5
          You do need the block and valve from a scout with disk breaks. I just grabbed mine from the same scout that I pulled the rotors from. You can still use your old master cyl.

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          • #6
            Thanks, Alan.

            but now I feel like a big idiot...I don't have my Scout in front of me....what is the equalizer block? I realize that I mentioned it in my previous post, but I only now realize that I don't know which part it is!!:o

            There's the big black circular thingy, that's the booster, right? Then there's the rectangle thingy with the two chambers, that's the master cylinder resivoir, right? I have the proportioning valve...so what is the equalizer block? Sorry for such a green question. I'm sure if I looked under the hood, I'd instantly know...

            Thanks!

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            • #7
              The equilization block located in the inner fender just below the master cylinder. The proportioning valve is a little cylinder, about 1.5in dia. x 1.5 long, that is screwed into the back of the equilization block. They are both brass if I remember right. The proportioning valve lowers the pressure to the rear brakes. You will probably need some new ferruls?, nuts. Or brake lines between the block and the master cylinder, the nuts were different sizes on mine. If you have a flairing tool it makes it a little easier so then you can just change the nuts instead of the lines

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              • #8
                You wouldn't happen to have a picture of this setup on a disc brake system, would you? All I have to look at is my 4-drum set up. I'd love to see what the finished product will look like! :)

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                • #9
                  The wife is out of town with the dig cam, but when she gets back on monday I'll see what I can post.

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