Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

More Duraspark questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • More Duraspark questions

    I've started the IH/Duraspark conversion. When I pulled off the outer shaft from the IH disty, I found this strange green piece in one of the cenrtifugal advance slots. It doesn't look like it belongs there but I wanted to make sure that it's OK to remove it. I looked at the pics in the conversion article but couldn't make out the area in question.

    Also, I seem to recall from another thread that I should leave the centrifugal advance springs in place since I don't have all the pieces for the TBI, yet, and will be running this with a carb.

    Thanks,

    Paul

  • #2
    The little green things are the bushings. IIRC they are flat on 2 sides and curved on the ends.

    Yes you can leave the mech and vacuum advance in it and use the whole DS system.
    Thats what possum scout did and she used a point dist for the conversion. She did it at night in the dark with just a generator powered candle out in the middle of the desert with just a hammer and a pair of pliers. :-) Not really but she did great and seem to be happy with the DS but not her brakes.
    Bill USN-1

    COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
    HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
    May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
    Learn to do it right.

    Comment


    • #3
      MIA

      Well, I guess that means I only have a small piece of one of them left. The other slot is empty.

      Are these parts that are available or do I need to start fabricating some new ones? If I need to make some, any suggestions for the material?

      As for possum scout, I followed her saga because I thought I was going to use my point disty. I found a Gold Box one so I'm using that.

      Right now, I'm back to using the points because my Pertronix has developed a bit of a temper. The Scout would start and run well, but I kept burning through the ballast resistor. I finally traced it to the Pertronix. Whenever I hooked power to it, the ballast resistor would start smoking.

      Comment


      • #4
        Make that 2 pieces

        Bill,

        Went out to the shop and pulled the green piece. Actually turned out to be 2 pieces. Both are semi-circular. Then (when all else fails) I drug out the Chilton. The book calls them block sliders. At least now I have a little better idea what they're supposed to look like. In the diagram, they appear to be a collared bushing. What the diagram doesn't show is the flat sides. But, from your descripription, I think I get the idea.

        I'll head down to the parts house on Monday and see if I have any luck. Otherwise, I recall seeing quite an assortment of nylon bushings at the hardware store. I'm thinking I could just get a couple that are the diameter of the collar and fire up the dremel and lathe to get what I need.

        Now if that Duraspark would just hurry up and get here.

        Comment


        • #5
          I never ran a pertronics but aren't you supposed to remove the ballast resister when installing it?
          Just checking...

          E-mail me off the board with your address and I will send you a couple of those bushings...
          [CENTER]1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1/4L60E. White and Woodgrain Sleeper...PCM 16188051 With SS/V4P/Custom Tune! WOT 12.9 AFR!

          1990 Chevy Suburban Silverado 5.7L 2wd ECM 1227747 HiWay Lean Cruise 18.5 MPG and 12.5 to 1 AFR at WOT!

          1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 4 speed PCM 16197427 Project!

          [SIZE=3][B][URL="http://www.gearhead-efi.com/"]GearHead-EFI.com[/URL] EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners![/B][/SIZE]
          [B]May be all you need to know about EFI![/B]

          and I still help local JustIH members (for fun) free! :cool: [/CENTER]

          Comment


          • #6
            The instructions said to keep the ballast resistor. They give 3 different wiring diagrams. 2 of them show it wired up to the resistor.

            Hopefully, I'll have the Duraspark up and running by the end of the week.

            Are you feeling good enough, yet, to get more time in on your FI conversion?

            Comment


            • #7
              They ballast resistor should be there as a result of the type of coil. Most old points systems used an ext resistor coil to cut down on the current thru the points. it ran a 12V jumper from the I term of the starter to give it 12v during cranking.
              If you were running an internal resistance coil then you would not need the ballast resistor. the pertronix is on the neg side of the coil to trigger it right?
              I've never run one but I assume it just replaces the points.


              Nylon or delron would be fine for the bushings. even bronze.
              Bill USN-1

              COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
              HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
              May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
              Learn to do it right.

              Comment


              • #8
                Affirmative on the negative coil post for the trigger and yes, it just replaces the points.

                I'm not gonna mess with it anymore. I just threw the points back in so I can move the Scout around until I get the new disty built.

                I'll let y'all know what I find out on the bushings.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bushings are in!

                  I went to NAPA. No luck. But, they did direct me to an old time mechanic out on the edge of town that still repairs pieces as opposed to just R&R. He dug out a brass sleeve bushing that was just about the right size. I just had to open up the hole a hair, grind one side flat, and cut to length. He wouldn't charge me. All he asked was that I come back and let him know whether or not it worked.

                  The new brass bushings fit and work great.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    E-mail me off the board with your address and I will send you a couple of those bushings...
                    You must not have read that in the above message?
                    [CENTER]1994 Buick RoadMaSSter Estate Wagon LT1/4L60E. White and Woodgrain Sleeper...PCM 16188051 With SS/V4P/Custom Tune! WOT 12.9 AFR!

                    1990 Chevy Suburban Silverado 5.7L 2wd ECM 1227747 HiWay Lean Cruise 18.5 MPG and 12.5 to 1 AFR at WOT!

                    1972 IH 1210 Isky Cammed Balenced 345 4 speed PCM 16197427 Project!

                    [SIZE=3][B][URL="http://www.gearhead-efi.com/"]GearHead-EFI.com[/URL] EFI Conversions and Chip Tuners![/B][/SIZE]
                    [B]May be all you need to know about EFI![/B]

                    and I still help local JustIH members (for fun) free! :cool: [/CENTER]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      oops

                      Guess I missed that part.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        vacuum advance

                        My Duraspark arrived today. I got to the point where I need to hook up the vacuum advance. I'm not ready to put the FI together, yet, so I'm still using a carb.

                        The stud for the vacuum advance arm is on the opposite side of the magenetic pickup but there is a hole on the correct side. I am assuming that I'll still need to run the vacuum advance. Any ideas on what has worked for others for hooking up the vacuum advance lever? With the lever being on the other side, is it going to advance in the right direction?

                        Possum Scout, can you help me out here? I know you were using yours with a carb.

                        Also, does the black wire just ground to the duraspark base plate? On mine, it runs to a two holed prong at the base of the rubber gasket that connects at the outer wall of the distributor. Can I just drill two pilot holes in the base plate and use short sel-tappers to attach it to the base plate?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: vacuum advance

                          Originally posted by sandracer
                          My Duraspark arrived today. I got to the point where I need to hook up the vacuum advance. I'm not ready to put the FI together, yet, so I'm still using a carb.

                          The stud for the vacuum advance arm is on the opposite side of the magenetic pickup but there is a hole on the correct side. I am assuming that I'll still need to run the vacuum advance.

                          Mine had a pin on both sides of the advance plate so it hooked right back like the original.

                          Any ideas on what has worked for others for hooking up the vacuum advance lever?

                          You could probably just drill and tap for a small screw, then just use a drop of lock-tite on the threads when you install it.

                          With the lever being on the other side, is it going to advance in the right direction?
                          It will be pulling in the same direction as the original since you are putting it back in the same place.

                          Possum Scout, can you help me out here? I know you were using yours with a carb.

                          Also, does the black wire just ground to the duraspark base plate? On mine, it runs to a two holed prong at the base of the rubber gasket that connects at the outer wall of the distributor. Can I just drill two pilot holes in the base plate and use short sel-tappers to attach it to the base plate?

                          This is addressed in the conversion article...just lenthen the slot for the rubber grommet so it sets flat with the top, then drill and tap a hole for the gnd tab.
                          I tie the other end into the engine gnd.
                          Bill USN-1

                          COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
                          HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
                          May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
                          Learn to do it right.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks Bill,

                            Just wanted to make sure before I went any further.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Have you already ground out the slot for the wires? Be sure you don't grind it in the wrong spot, set the distributor in place first.
                              Ok, ground the black to the baseplate, I ran a double ground on mine.

                              The vac advance..works good, I put mine under a heavy load today, and it worked flawlessly! Just open your original dizzy, and loo to see which way the vac. advance pulls. Then install it on the duraspark on the same side.

                              I have taken the Scout out several times now, and am VERY happy with it!

                              possum scout

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X