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  • In Tank Pump

    Here is a pretty straight forward in tank pump setup I think will work fine for the IH.

    Check it out.
    intank pump
    Last edited by Bill usn-1; 02-17-2006, 02:36 PM.
    Bill USN-1

    COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
    HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
    May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
    Learn to do it right.

  • #2
    Good write up!! My only concern is with the wiring for pump and sealing it off for us guys that have submerged sending units (mounted on side of tank, not from top like S2). Don't think the ole RTV will do the trick.

    The wire sealing is one of my issues for intank pumps I am trying to work out so that I feel good about using intank pumps. Anyone seen a donor sender that has a wire pass through assembly that can be transfered to another flat surface with only a hole? I know you can replace the pump wiring in some senders, but are there any without a special flange made/stamped into the sender upper flange to accommidate sealing. May have to cut out the flange of the 89 donor truck sender and braze it to my 800 sender. And I thought the wiring was going to be a pain.

    Yall S2 guys don't know how good you have it.

    Bill must be getting bored as he is looking for info with pics and writing to help us slackers out. He needs that 4 banger IH motor to keep him busy for a FEW days/hours.

    Thanks Bill from your favorite slacker!!!
    My "Disasterpiece"
    1970 800A 4X4,HFI'd,304,B/W,27,44,3:73,28's.
    The rest are in my 25 year plan!

    My "Ruedh"
    FREE 1972 1110 4x4,V8(?)727,205,44 drum/60/3.54's,small cheap tires.
    LOOOOADS-O-RUST!! Donor body located. Not!! JY owner played the "crusher value" card. : angry:
    NON-working rear window. Need info!!!

    www.northtexasbinders.com

    Comment


    • #3
      What about using the gas tank repair epoxy the sell at the parts store. Just knead it together and apply a small amount on the inside and outside where the wires go through. Then a little silicone on the outside for extra precaution.
      Bill USN-1

      COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
      HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
      May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
      Learn to do it right.

      Comment


      • #4
        This should work....

        Originally posted by Bill usn-1
        What about using the gas tank repair epoxy the sell at the parts store. Just knead it together and apply a small amount on the inside and outside where the wires go through. Then a little silicone on the outside for extra precaution.
        Picture below is the wireing pass through assy from my 89/90 chevy donor truck OEM sender.

        Its is a three wire design so the pump ground,hot and sender signal is taken care of when using it.

        It is sealed with an oring and retained with a push nut (you know the ones on your kids toys tha once installed the are almost impossible to remove and if ya do get one off it is usually after a lot of cussing and puncture wounds). It installs in just a hole and should accomidate any thickness sender flange.

        Now I have to rework my 800'S OEM sender to accomidate the connector and pump cradle from the chevy sender. Just one more buildup to add to my confusion.

        Will have to post pic of second option I found in another post.
        Attached Files
        My "Disasterpiece"
        1970 800A 4X4,HFI'd,304,B/W,27,44,3:73,28's.
        The rest are in my 25 year plan!

        My "Ruedh"
        FREE 1972 1110 4x4,V8(?)727,205,44 drum/60/3.54's,small cheap tires.
        LOOOOADS-O-RUST!! Donor body located. Not!! JY owner played the "crusher value" card. : angry:
        NON-working rear window. Need info!!!

        www.northtexasbinders.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Second option

          this one is from a 85ish chevy pickup sender. It is only one wire. It is retained with the same 'cussing nut" as mentioned above (thats why it is not shown in pic cause i destroyed it trying to remove it).

          Might be of benefit to someone.
          Attached Files
          My "Disasterpiece"
          1970 800A 4X4,HFI'd,304,B/W,27,44,3:73,28's.
          The rest are in my 25 year plan!

          My "Ruedh"
          FREE 1972 1110 4x4,V8(?)727,205,44 drum/60/3.54's,small cheap tires.
          LOOOOADS-O-RUST!! Donor body located. Not!! JY owner played the "crusher value" card. : angry:
          NON-working rear window. Need info!!!

          www.northtexasbinders.com

          Comment


          • #6
            pic of first option assembled.

            I think it will work??????????
            Attached Files
            My "Disasterpiece"
            1970 800A 4X4,HFI'd,304,B/W,27,44,3:73,28's.
            The rest are in my 25 year plan!

            My "Ruedh"
            FREE 1972 1110 4x4,V8(?)727,205,44 drum/60/3.54's,small cheap tires.
            LOOOOADS-O-RUST!! Donor body located. Not!! JY owner played the "crusher value" card. : angry:
            NON-working rear window. Need info!!!

            www.northtexasbinders.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Looks like it will work as long as there is room to drill a hole that size on the plate.
              Never seen the 800 plate.
              Bill USN-1

              COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
              HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
              May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
              Learn to do it right.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Bill usn-1
                Looks like it will work as long as there is room to drill a hole that size on the plate.
                Never seen the 800 plate.
                Tell me about it. Not but 3 1/2" outside diameter and you only have about 2 inches of that to work with. Then to top it all off the rheostat assy for the sender is induction welded to the flange also.

                I am experimenting now with the whole setup. Will update later if it looks doable.

                May also look into making up a new flange and suspending the rheostat assy down on the tubing like the chevy donor was??

                Lots of head scratching to come....................................
                My "Disasterpiece"
                1970 800A 4X4,HFI'd,304,B/W,27,44,3:73,28's.
                The rest are in my 25 year plan!

                My "Ruedh"
                FREE 1972 1110 4x4,V8(?)727,205,44 drum/60/3.54's,small cheap tires.
                LOOOOADS-O-RUST!! Donor body located. Not!! JY owner played the "crusher value" card. : angry:
                NON-working rear window. Need info!!!

                www.northtexasbinders.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  That writeup is almost identical to the setup on my J10.

                  I thought, though, that the requirements for the lines were 3/8" supply and 5/16" return?

                  That writeup uses the stock lines through the flange which are 5/16" supply and 1/4" return.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Is it ID or OD?
                    I actually use the stock plastic fuel line as the return line. It is 5/16OD but 1/4ID. So if you use 5/16 hose it hooks right up.

                    If you start too small of hose the friction on the wall of the hose over a long run will cause restriction to flow.
                    Bill USN-1

                    COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
                    HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
                    May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
                    Learn to do it right.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I actually use the stock plastic fuel line as the return line

                      Is that the stock GM line? I didn't get any of the lines.


                      How about the supply? Is 5/16 big enough? I had been planning to make a new flange for the tank, but if I can use the 5/16 and 1/4 stock fittings on the flange, that will save a lot of work.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The plastic line is what IH used for it's main fuel line.
                        Do you have an 80/800 or a II.
                        The II uses plastic 5/16 OD 1/4 ID plastic line. I use this one for the return.
                        If you connect it with the standard rubber fuel line then use the 5/16 FI fuel hose. It's a little stronger than the standard fuel line.
                        I think you will find the same is true for your sender. I would be very surprised if the manufacturer used a 1/4 OD fitting. That would only leave about 1/8-3/16 ID for flow.

                        I think you should hook yours up with what you have and try it.
                        I think you will find you will be using 5/16 and 3/8 hose to hook up to the tank.

                        Any hose you use should be the FI hose.
                        Bill USN-1

                        COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
                        HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
                        May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
                        Learn to do it right.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am a way off from doing the injection on the Scout project. I'm doing the injection on the J10 first. The flange on my tank literally is exactly like the one in the above writeup. ID 5/16 supply and 1/4 return. When I do fuel lines, if they are 5/16 ID, I have always used 5/16 ID hose for connections. Going up a size with the hose is too loose.

                          I've not been real coherent today, sorry.

                          All I really need to know is 5/16" ID line can flow enough fuel for the TBI unit.

                          As long as 5/16" ID line from the tank to the TB is large enough, I'm all set.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I don't know what motor you are runing in the [email protected]@P, but what ever lines it used before will "probably" work now.
                            Where you might have a problem is building pressure on the return line if it's too small causing the motor to run rich.
                            To avoid any problems I stick with what I know works for me.

                            Was the return line you have now used for FI or was it just a vapor return?

                            TBI is a full flow return system.
                            Whatever fuel isn't used it goes right back to the tank.
                            Bill USN-1

                            COMMITED TO TEACHING PEOPLE THE "PROPER" WAY TO EFI
                            HAMILTON FUEL INJECTION
                            May be the answer to all your fuel injection needs!
                            Learn to do it right.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It's a carbureted 258, mechanical fuel pump.

                              The J10 used a 3 port fuel filter, with excess fuel running back to the tank. All vapors were routed to a charcoal canister that got purged into the intake at operating temp.



                              I feel like I'm badgering, but what size line do you run for the supply?


                              thanks a ton for your help.

                              Comment

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